The Northern Temple Pagoda (Beisi Ta) - Suzhou, China - March 31st, 2012

One of the first things I noticed about the Temples in Suzhou (and most of the things in Suzhou) is that many of the sites that people can visit are cheap or free. The North Temple Pagoda (Beisi Ta in Chinese) is one of the places that nearly anyone regardless of income would be able to visit, especially compared to the Temple prices in most of the big cities like Nanjing, Shanghai and Hangzhou.

At the gate were tourist busses (every major site has them) and people selling their wares, as well as some old beggars at the gate. To get there Randy and I had walked for nearly an hour from the Humble Administrator's Garden.

At the entrance of the Temple just past the gate is a giant fat laughing Buddha sitting down behind a large stone altar. The Buddha is made of stone and his face and form is such a joyful way to be greeted in such a place as this.

The Temple itself isn't all that large for being a tourist site, which really leaves so much of it's charm and holiness of the place. In the center of the grounds rises the 9 story Pagoda (was once 11). In the middle of the Pagoda is Guan Yin draped in a red cape. The darkness adds peacefulness to the place and the narrow passageway to her is like a baby's entrance to and from the womb. I did the three bows as the other folks who passed through were doing and noticed an old couple whose seemed the most present in the act of worship (compared to some of the younger folks and the few tour groups).

After that we climbed to the second floor before descending back down. It was good we didn't go farther up, the walls have no railings on the way down making it rather dangerous (combined with the small worn down steps). The Pagoda is ancient dating all the way back to the 3rd Century, and being rebuilt once more in 1582.

After exciting the Pagoda we entered the Temple grounds where incense was being burned by couples and individuals. It was here I bought some incense and burned it for my friend Hien who had died last year. Since her funeral I've been wanting to visit but have been unable to, so in China I've wanted to honor her here.

The Three Great Golden Buddhas rose up as I bowed three times towards them with the incense that was afire and then placed it upon the sand where the others stood. In China three is lucky number. Packs of incense are in three, every Temple usually has three figures at the back.

When I left my heart was full of remembrance and time felt as if it had slowed down as I left the grounds with Randy.

Garden Tombyard of Puhaddin - Yangzhou, China, March 11th, 2012

The last place of historical and religious significance we would visit was the Tombyard of Puhaddin. Beyond the peacefulness of the place, the thing that stood out was how well the place had been kept and the history of the relationship between China and Islam that was present.

The Tombyard is still used today for some worship services and because of it some areas are locked off from tourists...such as the prayer hall which I was able to catch a glimpse of through the small windows that covered the door of the hall.

The entrance to the Tombyard is a large gate which leads into a garden that's not feeling it's best. A lot of the grass and plants are dead and the water looks a bit malnourished, but there are still areas where it feels like a peaceful garden should...such as the hill top that leads the second gate where there are areas to sit and rest.

The second gate is like an entrance to any Temple where its a circular entrance, though the colors are not temple colors. The Tombyard itself is made up of greens and whites as the main color. One of the areas that stands out the most in the Tombyard is the Pagoda that was made where prayer is called. It is made in the style of Chinese architecture (the curved roof) though at the top is a moon, a symbol of Islam and where we were located. Right next to the Pagoda was a walkway honoring a general whom an Emperor had honored. We went up to the top of the Pagoda and were able to see the building housing some of the greater Tombs (Like Puhaddin's Tomb). The Tombyard is a mixture of Chinese and Arabic architecture which really gives it a feeling of history (beyond the ancient tombstones themselves). It is quite a lovely and peaceful and has so much information.

Beyond the second gate is where the gravestones are as well. The gravestones date all the way back to the Song Dynasty, and in the room across from the tombs are coal copies of Yuan Dynasty era tombstones with translations of what had been inscribed in Arabic. Each room has its purpose listed, as well as when it was built and its importance to the Muslim community in Yangzhou.

The area had so much history present. Both of the warriors honored in the Tomb and those the Chinese Lords had chosen to honor like Puhaddin who was a teacher in Yangzhou. Most of the people honored were warriors and merchants from the Song all the way to the Qing Dynasty.

While we were there a small tour group was being lead through all the areas of the Tombyard. Historically China has never been at odds with Islam even though Chinese and Muslim Empires had fought in the past, there isn't the same legacy of the crusades and conquest of Spain and the Ottoman conquest and because of it, there isn't the same bad blood between China and Islam as there is between Europe and Islam.

The area spoke of harmony between the two cultures and could be seen in a small way in the small tour group where the Muslim guide guided a more traditional looking Chinese family through the Tombyard telling of the rich history of this powerful place.

The House Taoist Temple - Yangzhou, China - March 11th, 2012

During the adventure around the Old District, Randy and I would stumble upon an old house that had been converted into a Temple. I can't remember the man who owned the house years ago, but the House Temple itself is what really stands out. I believe it was a Taoist Temple, which I will explain more later in the entry.

The Temple was very much a mixture of Taoism and Buddhism. Upon the wall of the entrance was the Taoist symbol of the Yin and Yang, as well as the colors of Taoism...being orange and yellow. Most of the statues were bearded and men as well, which leads me to believe if it wasn't an outright Taoist Temple than it was the main influence of the place. Usually the only bearded Buddhist Bodhisattvas that are seen are of the Three Kingdoms warrior Guan Yu or local honored heroes...which may have been a part of the Temple considering the overlap between Taoism and Mahayana Buddhism here in China. I think it is more likely to be a Temple to the Immortals though, since all the men had very long beards which is a Taoist Temple trait.

There was an area for candles and where incense could be placed where the incense had burned down (you'll find this in any Temple in China be it Taoist, Buddhist or Confucian)and there were only two buildings. The first with the bearded deity at the entrance and at the back a large building where there were three different deities, all bearded men.

The Temple was small and had no entrance fee...it really hit back the better part of religion in serving the common good and community. It was here I saw it being practiced when a middle aged women came with incense to honor one of the deities. The abbot or monk present (bearded, another reason for why it might have been a Taoist Temple, Buddhist Monks don't have facial hair). The monk was pretty impatient though when helping the woman which gave a bit of a bad vibe since so much of Taoism is balance (it's like seeing an angry Buddhist Monk, though Taoists are much more comfortable with emotions and the randomness of them in my reading of the texts (Tao Te Qing, Writings of Chuang Tzu). His actions towards her where in contrast to the place which had older folks walking through it who were at peace as outside people bought tourist items and food. It was like an Oasis in a desert and I don't think I'll forget the visit to that tiny Temple anytime soon.

Daming Temple - Yangzhou, China - March 10th, 2012

Daming Temple is an enormous Temple, and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Yangzhou. The tourist attraction was the most obvious thing about the Temple besides the giant Pagoda that rose from the interior.

The tourist part was obvious because of the ticket booth, the tourist busses at the entrance and the fact we met a Westerner here, his name was Flowr and he was from the Netherlands. He came to China as a solar engineer to work out the things on the ground in regards the factories that made solar panels. Randy and I talked with him before entering the temple grounds.

It was here there was the second part of the tourist attraction and the most blatant un-Buddhist practice...monks were working gift shops for the tourists. There were many of the the shops right before the large main hall. Suffice to say I felt a bit like Jesus at the Temple...it's one thing if people who are working the Temple to support the monks livelihood are doing it outside the Temple, but inside and by the monks themselves...my mind immediately went to merchant monks (contradictory term, monks are supposed to be non-attached to worldly stuff and live off charity).

Some areas of the Temple would remind me of it's rich history. The Pagoda, a few of the other small halls that most people weren't near...and for what it's worth it was pretty empty so there was time to enjoy the calm, and even teach Flowr a bit about Mahayana Buddhism since he asked. This might have been due to the fact that we were experiencing the last hour of the temple, as to the reason it was so empty.

Lotus Temple and Slender West Lake - Yangzhou, China - March 10th, 2012

Last weekend Randy and I went to Yangzhou together. Yangzhou is one of the famous cities in Jiangsu Province and dates back 2000 years. We would see things from tombstones to gates that dated back to the Song Dynasty. I'll reach those areas when I come them...first I want to talk about the visit the Slender West Lake where the Lotus Temple was located.

First I want to talk about Slender West Lake or Shou Xi Hu in Chinese. It's a very beautiful location and is modeled after the West Lake in Hangzhou, which I visited last year when I was studying abroad in Hangzhou.

This lake is much easier to take in though since it is in a large park. The Original West Lake is enormous and is a major part of the city versus the Slender West Lake which is a tourist attraction/park with an entrance fee.

The fee was very worth it though. Throughout the entire length of the area was an assortment of locations to relax, to explore and to reflect. Exploration could be seen by folks who had rented electric boats to tour the lake to get the islands on it, and there were many paths that branched off to different areas...one could spend an entire day here.

Arrival at Lotus Temple
It was following one of these paths that Randy and I arrived at Lotus Temple. Lotus Temple is next to the White Pagoda which looks more phallic than most Pagodas, but is quite lovely with it's coloring of white and gold. It was from this area that we entered through the back of the Temple.

The Temple was peaceful and much emptier than Daming Temple, the large Temple Yangzhou that brings the tour busses...and because of it still had that naturalness to the place. Natural in that there was only one stand selling spiritual items connected to the Temple. It wasn't trying to be anything more then a place where people could come and worship. Not many people were though, so it was quite empty.

Along the walls were beautiful paintings of the life of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas and large Guan Yin's(The Goddess/Bodhisattva of Compassion) and Buddhas were in the main hall and at the back walls, much like Statues of Marys or Saints in a Cathedral. The similarities between Chinese Buddhism and Orthodox and Roman Catholic Christianity will be an ongoing theme you will find, since there are many even in the simple things like aesthetics and placement of objects representing "higher beings." I'll go into this more later in the next post about Daming Temple.
For now, Lotus Temple was a rest in a very interesting exploration of the Lake. The Temple has been around for a long time, like many of the sites would see, and with it, I've found in modern day China there is that awareness of the past that there isn't as much in America.


To reach Daming Temple we would follow the West Lake all the way to its back entrance. It was wonderful seeing the change in landscape and the amount of people became less and less until we saw only an old man with his young granddaughter. The old are very close with the young here in China. Any place you go, you will usually find a Grandma or Grandfather with their granddaughter or grandson. Something much rarer in the States to see.

We would eventually lose site of the Grandfather and his granddaughter and arrive at the gate. Across the street we saw the Nine storied Qiling Pagoda and Daming Temple, the next adventure awaited.