The last place of historical and religious significance we would visit
was the Tombyard of Puhaddin. Beyond the peacefulness of the place, the
thing that stood out was how well the place had been kept and the
history of the relationship between China and Islam that was present.
The Tombyard is still used today for some worship services and because
of it some areas are locked off from tourists...such as the prayer hall
which I was able to catch a glimpse of through the small windows that
covered the door of the hall.
The entrance to the Tombyard is
a large gate which leads into a garden that's not feeling it's best. A
lot of the grass and plants are dead and the water looks a bit
malnourished, but there are still areas where it feels like a peaceful
garden should...such as the hill top that leads the second gate where
there are areas to sit and rest.
The second gate is like an
entrance to any Temple where its a circular entrance, though the colors
are not temple colors. The Tombyard itself is made up of greens and
whites as the main color. One of the areas that stands out the most in
the Tombyard is the Pagoda that was made where prayer is called. It is
made in the style of Chinese architecture (the curved roof) though at
the top is a moon, a symbol of Islam and where we were located. Right
next to the Pagoda was a walkway honoring a general whom an Emperor had
honored. We went up to the top of the Pagoda and were able to see the
building housing some of the greater Tombs (Like Puhaddin's Tomb). The
Tombyard is a mixture of Chinese and Arabic architecture which really
gives it a feeling of history (beyond the ancient tombstones
themselves). It is quite a lovely and peaceful and has so much
information.
Beyond the second gate is where the gravestones
are as well. The gravestones date all the way back to the Song Dynasty,
and in the room across from the tombs are coal copies of Yuan Dynasty
era tombstones with translations of what had been inscribed in Arabic.
Each room has its purpose listed, as well as when it was built and its
importance to the Muslim community in Yangzhou.
The area had
so much history present. Both of the warriors honored in the Tomb and
those the Chinese Lords had chosen to honor like Puhaddin who was a
teacher in Yangzhou. Most of the people honored were warriors and
merchants from the Song all the way to the Qing Dynasty.
While
we were there a small tour group was being lead through all the areas
of the Tombyard. Historically China has never been at odds with Islam
even though Chinese and Muslim Empires had fought in the past, there
isn't the same legacy of the crusades and conquest of Spain and the
Ottoman conquest and because of it, there isn't the same bad blood
between China and Islam as there is between Europe and Islam.
The area spoke of harmony between the two cultures and could be seen in
a small way in the small tour group where the Muslim guide guided a
more traditional looking Chinese family through the Tombyard telling of
the rich history of this powerful place.
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